One White Street
1 White St, New York City, NY 10013
4 Lives.
Exceptional technique, delightful atmosphere, great pacing.
One White Street was a splendid, spontaneous NYC supper spot. I came here with my mom as a gift to her. As with any restaurant in the city, especially one with a Michelin star, be prepared to spend some money. However, I felt that they nailed one of the most essential pieces of a fine dining experience… the service. As someone who has worked in fine dining, I can appreciate the Chef’s ability to put together a great dish. The ultimate test is to see if the FOH respects the chef enough to provide a service that represents their effort.
While I cannot speak on behalf of employees, I can say that during my experience here, the waitstaff was extremely attentive and kind. Never a missed step, gave great explanations for each dish, and they represented Chef Austin Johnson very well. I was saddened to hear that the Chef has since stepped away. It is my understanding that this decision was made so he can focus on his growing family, and so I wish him nothing but the best.
The biggest issue that I have put myself in, regarding this 9 Lives grading system, is that I do not want the rating of 4 out of 9 to have a negative connotation. One White Street gave me a great meal with well-balanced flavors, farm-fresh ingredients, and a great variety. I would most definitely come back again. A 4 out of 9 should be celebrated in the sense that this restaurant is worthy to make this list. I’ve eaten at many restaurants, but not all of them have a grade.
Nonetheless, if my experience was truly flawless, I would have given it a 9.
There are plenty of great things to say, but I feel that in order to keep this system as fair as possible, I need to address some things.
When it comes to a meal of this caliber, I believe that it was overpriced. I don’t use this word lightly, as I understand the logistics behind keeping a restaurant like this open. But if not for the fact that this was in NYC, I think I could have saved at least $100. Mentally, I can separate the cost from the experience, but I feel that it needs to be acknowledged for me to remain a trustworthy voice in this field.
Another thing that stood out to me was the choice of ingredients. Everything tasted fresh and high quality, but it has become a trend in this industry to fluff up a dish with expensive or unique things just to justify the price. I can appreciate the decision to include flavors like fish eggs or flowers, but it felt lazy. While a dollop of caviar or a garnish of flowers can be great, I do not want a mouthful of salt or bitter, soggy petals. To contribute to this further, we were given an American cut of Wagyu (I did not even know this was a thing.) And yet it was a steak with some mushrooms and greens and a sauce. Obviously, it was well-seasoned, it was tender, it was my favorite dish of the night… But I am coming out, spending this money, to try things that I should not be able to whip up in my own kitchen after splitting a bottom-shelf Chardonnay with my friends. Another example of “It’s special because it says Wagyu on the label.”
Finally, I did not feel like there was a rhythm or a system with the menu. “Summer Menu,” was about as inspired as we got. This is something that is not the most important to me, as I can recognize the fact that not every menu has to be strict and special. Yet, with access to an entire farm of fresh ingredients and interesting flavors, I wanted to see more dishes that exemplified the endless potential.
All in all, I thoroughly enjoyed my time at One White Street. I am eager to return. Despite the shortcomings in some regards, I felt very satisfied with the evening. I look forward to seeing the new seasonal menu as soon as I find myself back in NYC.
